Sunday, October 17, 2010

Bath to Cornwall

Saturday, October 16, 2010
The sunshine returned today, after a couple of overcast days, and we enjoyed a beautiful, warm, fall day.  Our first stop, not far from Bath, was at Wells, to see its renowned cathedral.  And what a place it was, inside and out!  The broad façade is a virtual history book in stone, with over three hundred statues of characters biblical, angelic, noble, and royal.  The cathedral close is a large green expanse framed by a medieval gate, providing a wonderful vantage point to appreciate the façade and towers of the cathedral.  The interior spaces were simply breathtaking.  The wide and soaring nave leads to the unique scissor arches, which look modern, but are actually a 14th century solution to the problem of foundations sinking under the weight of the towers.  Somehow, this massive building looks positively airy, ethereal.  The choir, “quire”, is one of the loveliest we’ve ever seen, with each chorister’s place beautifully set with embroidered cushion, drapery, kneeler, lamp, missal and hymnal.  The octagonal Chapter House, with its central pillar and fan vaulting was a match for the adjacent sanctuary and exterior.  I could go on, but it seems I already have…

We traveled to the southwest part of the country, driving through Dartmoor National Park.  Our picnic today was on the park’s high moors, ‘midst the sheep and the views of moors and green valleys below. 
As we neared the southern coast, we stopped to wander the narrow streets of Polperro, a small, but very popular, fishing village.  It’s impossible to drive or park in the town itself, so we left the car in a lot and walked the tiny streets to see the harbor and the houses perched on the hills above, then climbed up to the cliff walk for views of the open sea. 
We’re spending three nights in a comfortable cottage in Lostwithiel, at the head of an estuary, and will explore the West Country from here.

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